Traverse City Record-Eagle

Business

May 2, 2009

State wine-making spreading

Wine-making operations spreading like wildfire

TRAVERSE CITY -- Mark Carlson worked as an executive recruiter in the Chicago area, but always felt the pull of his Leelanau Peninsula ancestors.

A descendant of the Woolsey family, a clan that dates to the mid-1800s in the Northport area, Carlson and his wife Patti raised their family and decided it was time for a change from big-city life. Growing grapes and making wine in the land of his forefathers became the couple's new passion.

"I've been coming up here all my life," Carlson said. "We decided we wanted to do something else with our lives."

The Carlsons started growing grapes four years ago, and in September opened Silver Leaf Vineyard and Winery north of Suttons Bay. It's among scores of new wineries and vineyards sprouting up across Michigan; the state's burgeoning grape and wine industry shows no signs of dying on the vine.

Despite tough economic times in Michigan, state wine production and sales continue to grow. Michigan is now home to 65 commercial wineries, compared to 17 in 1995. Wine production in the state passed 1 million gallons for the first time in 2007, up almost 50 percent from 2004.

"We had a very successful fall," said Carlson. "From the day we opened, it was great."

Wine-making operations are spreading to unlikely locations, including the Upper Peninsula and eastern Michigan. The Grand Traverse Band of Ottawa and Chippewa Indians is investigating a possible winery in Acme Township, potentially bringing in another major player to northern Michigan's wine country.

The band is working with the Northwest Michigan Council of Governments on a feasibility study for developing vineyards and a winery on a 140-acre parcel near the intersection of M-72 and Bates Road. The band already owns and operates two major businesses nearby -- the Grand Traverse Resort & Spa in Acme and the new Turtle Creek Casino Resort in Whitewater Township.

"They need more information about the market for a winery," said Jaclyn Miel-Uken, a regional planner for NMCOG. The research will take about five months to complete, she said.

"It's an interesting project for us to learn about the (wine) market," Miel-Uken said. "It's the first time we've engaged in this type of work."

Tribal officials did not respond to requests for comment.

Locally, some newer operations include Douglas Valley Organic Vineyards in Manistee County, and Krolczyk Cellars' new tasting room in Freesoil. Others include Circa Estate Winery, also located in Leelanau County near Suttons Bay.

Some local wineries are expanding their product lines to include several new selections this season, including a host of cherry wines. Wineries also are enhancing their food offerings with items like wood-fired pizzas, pastries and barbecues.

Michigan wines also are growing market share. Michigan-made wines represented 5.8 percent of all wine sold in the state in 2007, almost doubling the market slice over the previous decade.

Most of Michigan's wine country historically has been concentrated in Grand Traverse and Leelanau counties, along with Van Buren and Berrien counties in southwest Michigan. But recently, new wineries and vineyards popped up around Alpena, Port Huron, and Upper Peninsula communities Escanaba and Manistique.

Linda Jones, of the Michigan Grape & Wine Industry Council, said expansion into new regions enhances Michigan's reputation as a wine destination, and generates more political clout in Lansing as more lawmakers have wineries in their backyards.

"That's good for the industry," Jones said. "It gets more attention, and it gets more legislative attention."

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