Traverse City Record-Eagle

November 19, 2008

Mike Terrell: Sedona is red rock country

By MIKE TERRELL

As bleak as northeastern Arizona is, except for its canyons, the central portion of the state, around Sedona, is called Red Rock Country, and it's beautiful.

Surrounded by red-rock monoliths that can be seen from anywhere in the community, this area has long been rated as one of the country's most beautiful locations; and, after spending four days exploring this area, I agree.

There are numerous hiking and mountain biking trails, panoramic overlooks, jeep trails, horseback trails, canyons, ruins and the 1.8 million-acre Coconino National Forest to explore. The rugged land is aptly described as "one of the most complex and diverse properties in the national system of parks and forests." Altitudes range from 3,000 to 12,000 feet in this diverse system.

Sedona is located at the mouth of beautiful Oak Creek Canyon. Following SR-89A north out of town is a stunning drive that winds through the canyon eventually climbing up to the Mogollon Rim, the southwestern boundary of the Colorado Plateau that extends into five surrounding states. The view from the top of the rim looking south down the full length of the canyon, covered in ponderosa pine, is breathtaking; in more ways than one if you stand close to the edge of the overlook.

The drive up to the rim of the canyon and back will take a couple of hours. It's a narrow, two-lane road with lots of overlooks. Either on the way up or back a stop at Slide Rock State Park is worth while. In the summer it's best known for a natural slide formed into the worn, red rocks of Oak Creek Canyon. The creek flowing through the canyon provides a natural water slide enjoyed by thousands of visitors. Spectacular trails take you along the canyon's sheer rock walls overlooking the creek bed.

There are numerous trails that start almost in town or just outside of it that lead to jaw-dropping overlooks and along red rock cliffs and mountains.

The Overlook Point Trail is located about a half-mile off SR-89A on Airport Road. There are several loops that begin at this point. The Airport Loop Trail is a fairly moderate hike that you can take out and back along the edge of a bluff with nice views of the valley and distant red rock formations. The Overlook Point Trail is a short, rigorous climb to the top of a red knob with outstanding views of Sedona and the whole valley. The round-trip is only a half-mile and the views are magnificent.

This spot is also marked with a "V," which means that a vortex is supposed to exist here; an area where alleged spiritual energy flows from the earth. There are three or four such places around Sedona.

Other nearby trails to the town that I hiked were Red Rock State Park, which has a series of fairly easy loop trails that wind along Oak Creek; Lower Chimney Rock Trail, a two-and-a-half-mile, out-and-back trail that skirts along the bottom of Thunder Mountain's cliffs; and Red Rock Loop Trail that climbs along the shoulder of Scheurman Mountain's exposed red rock cliffs to a bench that overlooks SR-89A, which is only a little over a mile out and back.

A couple of longer trails that were definitely worth hiking were Devil's Bridge Tail and Fay Canyon Trail, both moderate out-and-back trails about three miles in length with 300 to 400 feet climbs.

Devil's Bridge, a natural arch, takes a little bit of four-wheeling to reach along a rocky two-track leading back into desert land. The trail, an old forest road, leads you up into a canyon to the base of red rock cliffs. You climb the cliff using small, natural steps that have been formed by erosion and cutting. It's steep. I found myself hugging the rocks in front of me as I climbed; and, I didn't look back down going up.

Heights make me a little nervous, but once I got on top the path leveled out along the ledge. It wasn't too bad, and the view of the colorful backcountry was magnificent. You came out along a slightly higher ledge looking down at the natural arch. You could tell from the trail that people had hiked over the top of the narrow arch. I didn't. It looked just fine from where I was.

The Fay Canyon Trail is a fairly easy stroll through a broad, scenic canyon whose floor is encased in a forest of large oak trees. The contrasting fall colors of the bright oak trees with the buff colored cliffs rimming both sides of the canyon were inspirational. The trail head is located just a few miles from the turn off for Devil's Bridge Trail. Both are off Dry Creek Road, which T's from SR-89A; Sedona's main street.

Also located nearby is Montezuma Castle National Monument, which is one of the best preserved, most impressive ancient ruins I've seen in my Southwest travels. It's certainly one of the most spectacular. Built into the recess of a white limestone cliff about 80 to 90 feet above the ground, it's an imposing 20 room, five-story structure that was originally thought by early explorers to be Aztec in origin; hence the name bestowed upon the site.

We now know that it was built by Sinagua Indian peoples who farmed the surrounding land between the 12th and 14th centuries.

Like the ancient Anasazi, they abandoned the dwellings, but unlike the ancient ones this tribe did not just disappear. The Hopi and Zuni Indian Tribes trace their ancestors back to the Sinagua.

Sedona, the second most visited area in Arizona after the Grand Canyon, is a beautiful area. The canyons and mountains around the town have more maintained trails than anyplace else in the state.

There are many canyons to explore and an extensive, scenic red rock wilderness in all directions. It's red rock country and a delight to explore.