Traverse City Record-Eagle

Columns

June 8, 2009

Everyday Cook: Braking daily for asparagus

Some wives ask their husbands to swing by the market and pick up a gallon of milk on their way home from work.

For Mary Harding of Traverse City, it's asparagus.

Mary's husband Bob drives by Norconk Farms' asparagus stand on West M-72 every day. Right now he's honoring Mary's standing request to stop and pick up asparagus for that night's dinner. When he gets home, Mary washes and dries it, rolls the spears in olive oil and coarse kosher salt and they go on the grill -- the star of each evening's meal.

"We do it every day that it's in season," Mary says. "It's just phenomenal."

Mary and Bob love fresh asparagus so much that she's trying something new this year. Going to the downtown Traverse City farmers market and buying six pounds the other day, she's decided to freeze some for winter.

She checked on the Internet and found that if she blanched, dipped it in ice water, drained and then frozen in a plastic freezer bag, it's supposed to maintain its quality and taste. She hopes so. Winter can be a cold, lonely time for the cook who revels in fresh ingredients like Mary does.

Meanwhile, she's making the most of farmers market season. Every Saturday morning finds her in downtown Traverse City stocking up on whatever is fresh at the moment.

She waxes poetic about making caprese last summer with fresh mozzarella, and basil and tomatoes from the farmers market. Finishing it with sprinkles from a bottle of basil-flavored extra virgin olive oil she bought at Fustinis in downtown Traverse City, she says it made a dish her guests swooned over.

"We had company, and they went crazy," Mary says.

Using what's fresh and in-season fits with a lifestyle Mary and Bob have adopted in the recent past. Losing about 40 pounds after an illness a few years ago, she liked her lighter self and wanted to keep it that way.

For that reason, she's changed the way she cooks dinner, which is typically about six times a week. Relying on chicken and fish, they avoid bread and most carbs. If Mary makes pasta, she uses the whole-grain variety.

One recipe find she raves about involves purchasing a whole chicken from Maxbauer's in Traverse City.

"Maxbauer's puts their chicken on a spit and roasts them there and sells them as cooked chickens," she says. "They will also sell you one of those chickens at the same price, all tied up and ready for the grill."

Using a beer can chicken device she bought at T.J. Maxx, the chicken is seasoned with salt, pepper and brown sugar. It goes on the grill with fresh redskins and vegetables. An hour and a half later, Mary says, get ready for "the best chicken you've ever tasted."

"It's so moist inside, and nice and crispy on the outside," she says.

And the best part is, right now, she can pick up the fresh vegetables to go with it at the farmers market.

"Whatever is fresh and new that week, that's what I'm buying."

Here are few other suggestions for ways to use this season's asparagus.

Asparagus Soup

1&1/2 T. butter

2 c. chopped onion

1&1/2 t. salt

3 T. flour

2 c. water

2 c. hot milk

2 t. dill

1/2 t. tarragon

Pepper

Break off and discard tough asparagus bottoms. Slice off tips and set them aside. Chop the stalks into 1-inch pieces.

Saute the onion and asparagus stalks in the butter and salt for about 10 minutes over medium heat. When the onions are transparent and soft, sprinkle in 2 tbsp flour, stirring constantly for another 8-10 minutes.

Add water, stirring constantly. Heat to a boil, then turn down to a simmer. After about five minutes, sprinkle in the last tablespoon of flour, mixing well, then cook for another 8-10 minutes, stirring frequently.

Puree the soup with the milk in a food processor or blender. Puree the soup in batches and have an empty pot on hand for the puree. Season the puree with the dill, tarragon and pepper.

Cut the reserved asparagus tips into small pieces, and steam until just tender. Add these to the soup, heat very gently (don't boil), and serve immediately.

-- Carolyn Kelly

This salad makes a delicious main course for lunch or dinner.

Asparagus and Crab Salad

Dressing:

2 T. olive oil

2 T. rice vinegar

2 T. sugar

1 T. orange juice concentrate

1 T. lime juice

1 T. dark sesame oil

Salad:

2 c. cut-up fresh or frozen Michigan asparagus

12 ozs. crab meat (fresh or canned) or imitation crab

1 (10-oz.) bag lettuce mix

1 c. cantaloupe, cut into 1/2-inch pieces

1 c. sliced seedless cucumber

For dressing, combine all ingredients; mix well. Set aside.

For salad, steam or microwave asparagus until tender-crisp. Drain and let cool. Cut crab into bite-size pieces. Combine asparagus and crab in a large bowl; add lettuce mix, cantaloupe and cucumber. Toss gently. Pour salad dressing over all. Toss to evenly coat. Serve immediately.

Makes 4 to 6 servings.

Note: Substitute 11/2 cups cubed, cooked chicken for the crab, if desired.

-- Michigan Asparagus Advisory Board

If you're an everyday cook willing to share your techniques and recipes, or would like to suggest someone, please write Food, Record-Eagle, 120 W. Front, Traverse City, MI 49685 or e-mail gibbonskath@yahoo.com.

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