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September 4, 2008

Dining Out: Tour the Mediterranean

Tali offers dishes of Italy, Greece, Israel, Spain

By TOM TRACEY

FRANKFORT -- Owners Va Chong and Bobbiesee Ku of the ground-breaking Fusion Restaurant in Frankfort have launched another venture just down the same street. Derrick Gage, executive chef, says guests can expect a total Mediterranean dining experience at the new Tali Bistro Bar & Grill.

"We give people a tour of Mediterranean food in a sit-down, relaxed environment," Gage said. "We have a very broad menu of 22 different dishes influenced by Spanish and Mediterranean food. My servers act not as servers, but as guides. Different dishes appeal to different tastes, so our servers know the menu as well as us."

Different dishes are what define Mediterranean food. The diverse countries of Spain, France, Italy, Greece, Israel, Egypt and Morocco all kiss the coastline of the Mediterranean Sea. While differing in borders, they all share a reliance on indigenous ingredients: More cheese, fish and poultry and less red meat; plenty of fresh leafy vegetables instead of potatoes; lots of beans and rice rather than bread. These meals are prepared with olive oil and washed down with red wine.

Classic examples include paella from Spain (a platter of saffron-tinged rice baked with a potpourri of meat and vegetables, including shellfish and peppers) and duck l'orange from France (rich duck meat complemented by a tart orange glaze).

"We're trying to keep the Mediterranean experience at Michigan prices. We're doing paella at $24, duck l'orange for $21, so we're not at that $30 and above bracket," he said. "For starters, we serve home-baked focaccia bread with infused olive oil and offer smoked crab dip and French onion soup crowned with pastry. We want it to be very visual."

Along with changing how guests view their dinner, Gage is hoping to change how guest eat.

"Our culture tends to rush through meals," Gage said. "Most restaurants just want to turn tables quickly to make the most money. Here, we want people to take time out of their day to enjoy the atmosphere and food, like they do in France and Italy."

In northern Michigan's crowded restaurant scene, finding a niche is key. Fusion found its niche by introducing northern Michigan diners to Asian specialties prepared with a European accent. Meanwhile, Tali is targeting customers expecting quantity -- as well as quality -- in their food.

"We're giving large portions. It's not the typical kind of smaller plates that you associate with higher-end dining. You aren't going to leave the place hungry; I'm not going to let that happen. You'll be bringing food home," he said.

In keeping with the sleek lines of Fusion, Tali Bistro & Bar also presents a contemporary atmosphere. Simple yet sophisticated wood tables are matched with stylish chairs. Upbeat music plays in the background as mezzanine diners admire the scenery through spacious windows.

So far, the crowd at Tali Bistro Bar & Grill has brought some surprises, Gage noted.

"We are seeing a lot of different types of customers here. Boaters from Charlevoix stop here on the way to Ludington. The winner of the Chicago to Mackinac race stopped in and that was pretty cool. When a movie was shot in Frankfort last month, we had some of the stars eating here, so it's been a good time," Gage said.

Gage would know, as he splits his time between cooking in the back of the house and consulting with guests in the front.

"I go out to every table and greet them to make sure all their expectations were exceeded," he said. "And we have a bottomless pasta bowl for $11 where I prepare the meal right in front of them."

If that seems like a daunting task, Gage is up to the challenge. He financed his business degree at Western Michigan University by doing time at restaurants, including working under a talented executive chef at the Wabeek Country Club in Bloomfield Hills. As much as he loved his work, northern Michigan was calling him, so Gage relocated, working at restaurants in Glen Arbor, Old Mission and Elk Rapids.

"I heard about this and I met with Va and Bobbiesee. They explained what their ideas were and what they wanted to do. This was something I always wanted to do, too," Gage said. "We have a wonderful relationship."

"I get up everyday and think of what I'm going to do. I have that passion when -- at three in the morning the night before -- I might think of a special. The next day, when you hear guests say how wonderful the special was, that's what drives me," he said.

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