By KATE JACOBSON
Special to the Record-Eagle
TRAVERSE CITY — Traverse City might be known as the Cherry Capital, but a new berry is moving in and gaining attention.
The saskatoon, a small berry native to Canada, is taking off in northern Michigan as a popular crop for growers and a new twist in local restaurants for some of its dishes.
Kind of nutty in taste, the saskatoon, sometimes called a serviceberry, is about the size of a blueberry and is dark red in color. The small berry is often compared to the blueberry in taste, but has a texture more comparable to apples. It's packed with antioxidants, vitamin A and fiber.
The crop was introduced into the area about five years ago and has piqued the interest of local growers looking to diversify their crops. Farmers like Rick Cross of Northport said the crop is easy to maintain and allows him to enter into a niche market.
Steve Fouch, director of MSU Extension for Benzie County, said the type of agricultural environment of Leelanau and Grand Traverse counties make this area a favorable growing location.
The saskatoon is tough against harsh winters and is very durable once established, Cross said.
The fruit is primarily grown in parts of Canada, most notably Saskatchewan. Sarah Lutz of the Midwest Saskatoon Project said she's been selling both saskatoons and saskatoon plants to local businesses and farmers trying to introduce the fruit. So far, it's gained attention as a multifaceted fruit, being used in everything from beer to ice cream.
By getting farmers interested in growing saskatoons locally, it could mean a whole new market for northern Michigan.
"There is an opportunity for Michigan to embrace a new crop that is conducive to our environment and our climate," Lutz said. "It's not something that will take over cherries, but it could be a really big crop for us."
One local restaurant already has put its own twist on the saskatoon. Amical in downtown Traverse City offers a pistachio and saskatoon chutney over duck or pork and a saskatoon martini. Chef owner David Denison said the firmness of the berry helps it hold up when cooked, which makes it easy to work with in the kitchen.
Denison said the new berry also allows the restaurant to experiment more with local products that are different from the signature Traverse City cherry.
"It means another avenue of ingredients for us to work with that are local," Lutz said. "Most of the chefs in restaurants such as ours always are trying to find a source for local product. Anything that is not a cherry — that is something different — is certainly going to get interest."
Saskatoon Bran Muffins
1 c. wheat bran
1½ c. whole wheat flour
1 c. frozen saskatoons
1 t. baking powder
1 t. baking soda
1 c. milk
½ c. molasses or honey
¾ c. applesauce
¼ c. chooped nuts
2 T. oil
2 eggs, beaten
Preheat oven to 400°. Combine wheat bran, flour, baking powder and baking soda. Stir in nuts and saskatoons. In a separate bowl, blend applesauce, milk, molasses, oil and egg. Add to dry ingredients and stir until just moistened. Spoon into greased muffin tin (or paper cups) and bake 15-20 minutes. Makes 12 muffins.
— Midwest Saskatoon Project
This variation on creme brulee marries the flavors of the saskatoon with a rich and creamy custard. To make ahead, cover and refrigerate for up to 1 day.
Saskatoon Creme Brulee
⅓ c. sugar
4 egg yolks
2 eggs
2 T. lemon or orange liqueur
1 t. finely grated lemon rind
1 c. whole milk
1 c. whipping cream
1 c. fresh saskatoons
⅓ c. packed brown sugar, sifted
Preheat oven to 350°. Whisk together sugar, egg yolks, eggs, liqueur and grated lemon rind; whisk in milk and cream. Strain into pitcher.
Pour into six 1-cup ramekins or custard cups. Sprinkle with saskatoons. Place in large shallow roasting pan; pour in enough hot water to come halfway up sides of ramekins.
Bake in center of oven for about 35 minutes or until edges are set but centers still slightly jiggly. Let cool.
Topping
Before serving, sprinkle sifted brown sugar over crémes. Place on baking sheets; broil just until sugar melts and turns caramel color. Alternatively, caramelize the sugar with a propane blowtorch.
Serves 6.
— Midwest Saskatoon Project
Saskatoon Vinaigrette
2 c. saskatoons (thawed or fresh)
½ c. white wine vinegar
2 c. canola oil
1 T. Dijon mustard
Blend saskatoons, vinegar and mustard in a blender or food processor. Add canola oil slowly to emulsify. Yields 1 quart.
— The Riverside Inn
