CSA shareholders get more than food

Life

Related Photos

Jason Roggensee at Farm 651, in Cedar, which he owns. Record-Eagle/Keith King
Hannah Mulder, a student with the Great Lakes Culinary Institute, mixes caramel with brownies at Farm 651 in Cedar. Record-Eagle/Keith King

May 5, 2011

By VANESSA McCRAY vmccray@record-eagle.com The Record Eagle Wed Apr 11, 2012, 03:19 PM EDT

Frantic for fresh greens or ready ripe tomatoes?

What about just-baked pies and cookies?

Some local farms still have spots open for shares in their community supported agriculture programs. In return for purchasing farm shares, customers receive regular orders of vegetables, fruit and other goods during the growing season.

"For some people, it's a box of vegetables, and for other people, it's really about a relationship," said Jenny Tutlis, of Meadowlark Farm in Lake Leelanau.

Meadowlark, now in its 15th CSA year, still has summer shares available. Since starting the program, Tutlis has noticed a greater awareness of the importance of local food. The farm's standard share costs $525 and includes weekly delivery to drop-off sites. Other plans allow for more produce or less-frequent deliveries.

Washed salad greens are a popular fixture in Meadowlark boxes, as well as heirloom tomatoes and garlic. Tutlis also likes to throw in unusual vegetables to challenge customers and introduce them to new tastes. The farm includes a newsletter with recipes in the box.

CSA programs have expanded in the region since Jim Sluyter opened up one of the area's first in 1994. Five Springs Farm is still operating, but Sluyter now works as a policy specialist for the Michigan Land Use Institute. Sluyter recalled feeling a bit "isolated" at the start; there were only six or seven CSA farms in the state back then. Now, there are a couple dozen options in the region.

One way farms benefit from a CSA program is by receiving cash from share sales in the winter and early spring, when many need money for seeds and supplies, Sluyter said. Customers look forward to the regular, seasonal produce and enjoy getting to know the people who grow the food they eat.

Sluyter said customers who came to pick up a box frequently told him, "It's like Christmas every week. You're wondering what's going to be in there."

Customers may give up some of their choice by choosing a CSA plan over shopping at a farmers market. But local farms also offer a huge variety of plans, prices, delivery schedules and produce options. A customer should compare more than price when determining which farm to join, Sluyter said. Other factors to consider are the number of weeks the program runs, if the farm offers fruit, meat, eggs, cheese and other goods as part of the share and the proximity of the farm or delivery spot.

Farm 651 in Cedar announced its inaugural CSA plan this year, emphasizing flexibility. Its approach combines the shopping elements of a farm market with CSA purchasing. Customers purchase a $525 share, good for $680 worth of products. They can pick up food at the Farm 651 site, one of several community farm markets or arrange for delivery for a fee. Customers can take time off without penalty and choose what goods they want. Among the choices are baked goods such as pies and cookies and produce grown there and at other local farms.

The CSA's "farm-to-table approach" appealed to Jason Roggensee, who with his wife spotted the Farm 651 property for sale in 2008 during a trip. They planted 200 apple and 100 cherry trees, installed an irrigation system and opened the market last year, among other improvements.

Elmwood Township's Birch Point Farm is in its fourth CSA year, with summer shares starting in mid-June. The farm offers delivery options or a buffet-style choice at the farm. Among the specialities grown at Birch Point are the heirloom tomatoes, baby greens, herbs and peas, said Michelle Ferrarese.

Those who purchase CSA shares often change their eating habits to consume more fresh produce and think more carefully about what is in season, she said.

"It requires people to change their shopping habits and mealtime habits," Ferrarese said.

Hans Voss, a longtime CSA shareholder and MLUI executive director, likes the reliability and ease of receiving produce weekly and the connection CSAs build between farmer and consumer.

"Being an investor in a farm makes it a more personal relationship," Voss said.

For more information about local CSA farms and purchasing shares, check out the website www.csafarms.org. The MLUI site www.localdifference.org/spend10csa.asp provides an updated list of local CSAs with shares still available.

The following recipes are from Meadowlark Farm:

Kale and Feta Salad

1 lb. kale, stems and center ribs discarded

2 T. finely chopped shallots

¼ t. salt

1½ T. fresh lemon juice

¼ t. black pepper

4½ T. extra virgin olive oil

2 ozs. coarsely grated local feta or ricotta salata, about 1 cup

Working in batches, cut kale crosswise into very thin slices. Whisk together shallot, lemon juice, salt and pepper in a small bowl and add oil in a slow stream. Toss kale and cheese in a large bowl with enough dressing to coat well, then season with salt and pepper to taste. Massage with your hands until the lemon and oil tenderize the kale. This is a raw salad. Try grating watermelon radish in for color.

-- Meadowlark Farm

Spinach with Chiles (and an Indian Variation)

2 T. peanut oil

2 dried chiles

5 peeled shallots

1 lb. spinach

Heat oil in a dutch oven or big skillet over medium heat. When hot, add whole chiles and whole shallots sizzling for 30 seconds. Raise heat to medium high and stir in chopped spinach and ¼ c. water or vegetable or chicken stock, stirring occasionally until wilty and tender. Sprinkle with salt and pepper to taste.

To make an Indian curry variation, add 1 t. curry powder to the shallot/chile sizzle session. Instead of water/stock use 1 c. coconut milk .Cook over lower heat and longer until spinach is soft and wilty but still bright green.

-- Meadowlark Farm