By CYMBRE FOSTER
When it comes to preparing a traditional Hanukkah meal, It's all about the oil.
During the eight-day winter holiday, Jews commemorate the miracle of the oil by eating fried foods such as potato pancakes known as latkes, or sufganiyots, which are essentially deep-fried doughnuts.
"Fried foods remind Jewish celebrants of the 2,000-year-old miracle that turned one day's worth of candle oil into the eight days of light," said Fred Goldenberg, president of Congregation Ahavat Shalom in Traverse City.
After defeating a tyrant king, the Jews returned to their abandoned Temple in Jerusalem and found there was only enough oil for one day. Miraculously, the oil lasted eight days and nights.
"The oil is the key to Hanukkah," he said.
Not that the menu is limited to potato pancakes and doughnuts. Families also can create their own Hanukkah traditions, he said.
"If you can fry it, it can become a tradition," Goldenberg said.
In Israel, jelly doughnuts play a symbolic role in Hanukkah celebrations. In Eastern European homes, latkes are the traditional fare, he said.
"The word sufganiyot, a modern Hebrew word, comes from the Greek sufgan, meaning 'puffed and fried.' Every bakery in Jerusalem, no matter the ethnic origin of the baker, makes these jelly doughnuts for Hanukkah," said Goldenberg, who lives in Bellaire.
There isn't a specific traditional main dish, but typically at least one dish includes oil, he added.
"Like all religions, a traditional dinner is whatever you grew up with," Goldenberg said.
Goldenberg's family will throw a party and serve one "hearty and festive" dinner during this year's Festival of Lights. The main dish will be an herb-roasted chicken with a mix of roasted veggies, a side dish of sweet potato latkes and the Israeli sufganiyots.
Jay and Rachel Starr of Traverse City like to make traditional latkes and serve them with applesauce and sour cream.
"My husband loves them," said Rachel, who makes them using her mother-in-law's recipe.
They also serve other traditional Jewish dishes during Hanukkah such as matzo ball soup, kugel and seven-layer cake, she said.
Some latke recipes call for the potatoes to be grated in a food processor. However, Starr's mother-in-law prefers to hand grate them. Rachel follows that tradition.
"You can also make them as a casserole as well," she added.
When making latkes there are a few simple steps to ensure success.
Be sure to squeeze the extra water from the potatoes before beginning. It is also important that the temperature of the oil is hot enough (heat until sizzling); a neutral-tasting oil works best.
A cast-iron pan is optimal for frying because it maintains a constant temperature and browns the pancakes nicely.
Drain latkes on paper towels once you remove them from the oil. They are best eaten hot but can be kept warm in the oven. They also can be made ahead of time, frozen on cookie trays and placed in freezer bags. Reheat at 450 degrees.
If you're looking for a twist on the traditional, substitute white potatoes with sweet potatoes, or throw in some zucchini, carrot or apples. Although latkes are eaten during Hanukkah, they are delicious, simple and inexpensive way to use potatoes year-round.
Herb-Roasted Chicken with a Mix of Roasted Baby Root Vegetables
Chicken:
1 (3 1/2 to 4-pound) whole chicken
1 1/2 T. salt
2 t. black pepper
1 T. minced garlic
1 T. chopped thyme leaves
1/2 T. chopped sage leaves
2 T. chopped parsley leaves (reserve the parsley stems)
1/2 c. olive oil
1 lemon, quartered
2 bay leaves
Baby Root Vegetables:
1/4 lb. baby turnips, peeled and stem ends trimmed
1/4 lb. baby red carrots, peeled and stem ends trimmed
1/4 lb. orange carrots, peeled and stem ends trimmed
1/4 lb. baby golden beets, peeled and stem ends trimmed
1/4 lb. baby beets, peeled and stem ends trimmed
1/4 lb. fingerling potatoes, halved
1 1/2 t. salt
1/2 t. black pepper
1/4 c. olive oil
Preheat the oven to 475 degrees.
Wash the chicken and pat dry. Season well inside and out with the salt and pepper. In a small bowl, combine the garlic, thyme, sage, parsley and olive oil. Rub the olive oil and herb blend into the cavity of the chicken as well as all over the exterior. Place the parsley stems into the cavity of the chicken, and squeeze each lemon quarter into the chicken and place the rind in as well. Put the bay leaves inside the chicken and place the bird in a roasting pan or a saute pan and put it into the oven. Roast for about one hour, or until the chicken is golden brown, and the juices run clear. Remove from the oven and let sit for 10 minutes before carving.
For the vegetables: Place the vegetables in a large mixing bowl and season with the salt and pepper. Drizzle with the olive oil and place in a roasting pan or on a sheet pan. Place in the oven and roast for 30 minutes, turning once midway during cooking to ensure even browning. Serve with the herb-roasted chicken.
-- Fred Goldenberg
Sweet Potato Latkes
1/2 medium yellow onion
1/2 lb. Yukon gold potato, (about 1 large)
1/2 lb. sweet potato, (about 1 medium)
2 T. all-purpose flour
1 t. kosher salt
Pinch cayenne
1 large egg, lightly beaten
Vegetable oil
4 t. light sour cream
4 t. beet or regular horseradish
2 to 3 sprigs flat-leaf parsley
Preheat the oven to 200 degrees. Put a wire rack on a baking sheet and place in the oven.
Grate the onion on a box grater into a large bowl. Grate both potatoes into the same bowl, grating down the length of the potato to get long strands. Toss the potatoes with the onions as you work to keep them from discoloring. Put potato mixture in a clean dish towel and wring out excess liquid. Toss the latke mixture with the flour, salt and cayenne. Stir in the egg.
Heat a 1/4-inch oil in a large cast iron or other heavy skillet over medium heat. Working in batches, spoon about 1/4 c. of the latke mixture into the skillet, pressing lightly to form three-inch pancakes. Take care not to overcrowd the pan. Cook, turning once, until just golden, about 2 minutes per side. Transfer to the rack in the oven while you cook the remaining batter.
Serve the latkes topped with a small dollop of sour cream and horseradish. Garnish with a parsley leaf. Serve immediately.
-- Fred Goldenberg
Israeli Sufganiyot (Jelly Doughnuts)
4 to 4 1/2 c. white bread flour, plus more for dusting
1 t. salt
1 envelope dry active yeast (2 1/2 t.)
1 c. lukewarm milk
2 T. sugar, plus more for dusting
2 large eggs, beaten
2 T. unsalted butter, melted and cooled
1/2 c. preserves of choice
Vegetable oil, for frying
Cinnamon and sugar, for rolling doughnuts
In the bowl of a mixer, combine four cups flour and salt. Add the yeast.
In a small bowl, combine the milk and two tablespoons sugar. Add to the flour. (If using dry yeast, mix the yeast with 2 T. of the milk and 2 T. sugar and let sit until foamy, about five to 10 minutes, then add to the flour.)
Add the eggs and butter to the flour mixture. Begin to mix the ingredients into a soft, but not sticky, dough. Add a little extra milk, 1 tablespoon at a time. Work in extra flour, 1 tablespoon at a time. Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured surface and knead until smooth and elastic. (You can do this in a mixer fitted with a dough hook.) Transfer the dough to a lightly oiled bowl, cover, and let rise until doubled in size, about 2 hours.
Punch down the risen dough. Turn out onto a lightly floured surface and knead for a few seconds. With a lightly floured rolling pin, gradually roll out the dough to about 1/2-inch thick. When rolling dough, let it rest periodically to relax. Cut out into 3- to 4-inch rounds with a lightly floured biscuit cutter. Re-roll the scraps to make more rounds. Place the doughnuts on lightly floured baking sheets, spacing them apart and cover lightly with a dry towel. Let rise in a warm spot until doubled in size, about 20 minutes.
Transfer the risen doughnuts to a heavy pot filled 3 inches high with vegetable oil at 350 degrees. Fry the doughnuts, a few at a time, until golden and puffed, turning frequently, 5 to 7 minutes.
Lift the doughnuts from the oil using a slotted spoon and roll on a plate lined with granulated sugar and cinnamon mixed together. Let cool slightly and fill a pastry bag, fitted with a 1/2-inch round tip with jelly preserves. Insert the tip into the end of each doughnut and pipe approximately 1 to 2 t. preserves into them and serve.
-- Fred Goldenberg
Kugel Yerushalmi
1 lb. thin noodles or vermicelli
2/3 c. vegetable oil
3/4 c. sugar
About 1 t. salt
1/2 to 1 1/2 t. ground black pepper
6 large eggs, lightly beaten
Bring a large pot of lightly salted water to a boil. Add the noodles and cook until tender, 5 to 8 minutes. Drain and set aside.
Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Grease a 13-by-9-inch baking dish or a large tube pan.
Heat the oil in a large saucepan over low heat. Add the sugar and stir until dissolved. Stop stirring and cook until dark brown but not burned, about 10 minutes.
Immediately add the noodles, stirring to coat evenly. Remove from the heat and season with salt and pepper. Let cool until lukewarm, at least 15 minutes, then add the eggs. Adjust the seasonings.
Spoon the noodle mixture into the prepared baking dish. Bake until golden brown and crispy -- about 1 hour for the baking dish, about 1 1/2 hours for the tube pan. Serve warm or at room temperature.
-- "The World of Jewish Cooking" cookbook
