By GRETCHEN AUGUSTINE
TRAVERSE CITY -- From her hometown of Indianapolis to travels through Europe and Russia, Barbara Disborough always keeps her eye out for chocolate.
Lately, though, she's been focusing on chocolate-based confections in the Grand Traverse region.
"There are chocolates locally that are much better than European," she said.
Disborough shares her love of chocolate in her book, "The Guide to Chocolate in the Grand Traverse Region," which was released in November and will be featured in two signings Feb. 14; 10 a.m.-noon at Morsels Bite-Sized Bakery and 12:30-4:30 p.m. at Horizon Books in Traverse City.
The book introduces general chocolatiers first then breaks into categories, including fudge, desserts and sauces, and ends with coupons for chocolate-lovers. It also provides maps detailing the location of each chocolatier, making it convenient for a chocolate-themed road trip.
The book is a culmination of Disborough's lifelong love affair with chocolate. The Indianapolis native can still picture the 5-pound box of chocolates her father brought home as a Christmas gift from his employer, Sears, Roebuck & Co., sitting on the telephone table.
"I never could sneak enough," she said.
Over the years, travels and work have taken her across the United States and into Europe. She was "craving snow" when she moved to the region from Kentucky in 2003.
"I have looked around for good chocolate when it wasn't even trendy," she said. "When I moved here, I asked people, 'Where's the good chocolate?'"
As she looked, she kept thinking someone ought to write a book on the subject. She realized she was up to the task.
While Disborough has been educating herself about chocolate since before it was trendy, she said, lately "people's vocabulary and preference for chocolate has shifted toward the dark end, toward quality."
She offered Hershey as an example. For a time, she said, some of their chocolates were labeled as "chocolate flavored" because they used vegetable oil instead of cocoa butter, which is more expensive.
Now, even Hershey has higher-end lines.
"Culture's moving that direction, demanding flavor at affordable prices," she said.
At first, Disborough thought she would identify all the chocolates available to buy in the region. After walking into Target and assessing their vast chocolate aisle, though, she realized she would need to keep things local.
She knew an important part of research would be taste-testing.
"I thought I'd have to advertise for tasters, but all my friends said, 'Me, me,' " she said.
Disborough would acquire the chocolates for each meeting of what became known as the Tasters Group, a core group of about 12 people, six to eight of whom met at a time. Judging presentation and appearance in addition to taste and texture, the group sampled eight to 10 pieces from a single chocolatier's line at a time -- but just tidbits.
"You wouldn't eat eight or 10 at a time -- you couldn't do it," Disborough admitted.
Tasting was done in a particular order of chocolate types -- which Disborough wouldn't divulge, as she plans to host paid tasting parties -- and the palate was kept fresh with still or sparkling water between bites. Only desserts were sampled with coffee, and chocolate sauces were tasted both without and with ice cream.
In the last section of the book, Disborough shares some of her favorite chocolate recipes, discussing some of the more unusual ingredients now found in trendy chocolates, including bacon and black olives. She described the white chocolate and black olive confection as "interesting."
Her favorite "secret ingredients" include hot pepper, which has become better known and is now often used to "extremes," and cardamom, which she described as more subtle than cinnamon. "People can never guess" that's the ingredient making her chocolate so tasty.
She also uses local ingredients -- like Shetler's cream and home-grown eggs -- to enhance her recipes.
"The product is as good as (the ingredients) you put in," she said. "Cook with your best chocolate."
For her "Decadent Chocolate Mousse," Disborough said it's simple and can have "as much variety as your imagination."
She suggests Dagoba and Green & Black as two brands providing the "good chocolate" called for.
Decadent Chocolate Mousse
1 bar, about 3-4 oz., good chocolate
A generous 1/2 c. heavy (whipping) cream
3 fresh eggs, separated
Heat chocolate and cream together over a hot water bath and gently stir together when the chocolate is melted. This is where Disborough adds the "secret ingredient"; also add a little sugar or maple syrup if needed -- start with about 1 tablespoon and taste. Don't get any water in this mixture.
While that is melting, separate eggs. Whip the whites until stiff but not dry. Don't overbeat.
Remove chocolate from heat. It should be pretty warm but not really hot. You want to be able to beat in the yolks without cooking them instantly (lumping), but you do want them to cook as they are stirred in (thickening the mousse). With a mixer on low, beat in the egg yolks one at a time.
Fold the beaten whites gently into the mixture. Books say to "fold the whites into the chocolate/cream," but Disborough folds the chocolate into the whites because that is how her bowls and pans work out when she makes this. "I never have any problem," she said.
Pour into little cups or flutes, cover and chill.
Top with whipped cream at time of serving if you like. Take a bow!
Kate's Favorite Brownies
(That would be Katharine Hepburn)
2 oz., or two squares, unsweetened good chocolate
1 stick butter
1 c. sugar
2 eggs
1/2 t. vanilla
1 c. chopped walnuts
1/4 c. all-purpose flour
1/4 t. salt
Preheat oven to 325 degrees or about 310 degrees if your pan is glass.
You may toast the chopped walnuts if you like for 10-15 minutes while the oven is warming. Toasted walnuts have a very different taste than when they are added raw. Do not overcook.
Lightly butter an 8-by-8-inch pan, then lay in a piece of parchment paper or foil, allowing it to overhand the pan, then lightly butter that too.
In a heavy saucepan, melt the chocolate with the butter over low heat.
Remove pan from heat and stir in sugar.
Beat in eggs and vanilla.
Quickly add walnuts, flour and salt. Stir until just mixed. Spread into the pan and bake 40-45 minutes. Remove from the oven and set on a rack to cool completely before cutting.
This recipe doubles well. Use a 9-by-13-inch pan and bake 50-55 minutes.
"Kate Hepburn's 3 rules to live by:
"1. Never quit.
"2. Be yourself.
"3. Don't put too much flour in the brownies."
