By Carol South
TRAVERSE CITY -- With an early spring possibly on tap, visions of fresh, local produce begin to bloom.
Local growers are poised and ready, already working hard to create that reality.
Area Community Supported Agriculture programs -- or CSAs -- offer a direct link between farm and food. With seedlings already growing in greenhouses and hoophouses ready with early spring harvest, the CSA farmers can satisfy this craving.
Jenny Tutlis, of Meadowlark Farm in Lake Leelanau, will deliver the first spring share order Friday. Fifty members will receive a lush combo of spinach and braising mix that she and husband, Jon Watts, planted in a hoophouse last fall.
"When the snow starts to melt, people start thinking about fresh food," Tutlis said. "This is one of the best things you can do for your health, it's a really positive action you can take for yourself and people in your house: eat really, really fresh, well-grown food -- food grown with love."
Beginning its 13th season, Meadowlark Farm had 183 summer members last year and hopes for 200 this year. Members receive a weekly share of freshly harvested produce, some also purchasing optional flowers, fruit or extra salad shares.
A CSA "share" is enough vegetables for an average family of four a week.
Joining a CSA is different than buying from a grocery store or even a farmer's market. Benefits of membership include supporting local agriculture, keeping money in the region, staying connected to food and seasons, cooking creatively and partnering with farmers.
Shares sell quickly as CSA principles -- and devoted members -- have spread in the region over the past few decades. Money raised by shares provides the capital CSA growers need to operate. The biggest expense, seed ordering, usually occurs in January.
"People who are new to CSAs probably are just starting to think about it," said Michelle Ferrarese of Birch Point Farm in Traverse City, which had 40 members in 2009. "Last year we were getting calls even in June and we were already full."
Tutlis, whose operation has flourished largely from word-of-mouth advertising, said the down economy is prompting Meadowlark Farms to accept payment plans this year.
"If someone can pay a deposit for part of it, we're totally open to paying it over four or five months," she said. "It's more like your regular shopping for food, what you would spend a month on vegetables."
Ferrarese is busy launching her third season as a CSA. With transplants taking root at a neighbor's greenhouse and new plastic on a lean-to greenhouse, the growing already has begun. Already popping up are leeks, onions, scallions, celery, celeriac and flowers. Next on tap will be herbs, peppers and greens -- such as kale and Swiss chard -- the first run of cabbage and broccoli.
She hopes to have a hoophouse ready by fall to plant for winter harvest but for now she's immersed in spring preparations.
"When you're in the greenhouse, it's pretty magical," said Ferrarese, who relishes wintertime wearings of shorts and T-shirts inside a sunny greenhouse.
For more information on regional CSAs, see www.csafarms.org.
