Traverse City Record-Eagle

Opinion

August 13, 2009

Editorial: Wine industry growing

Not all that many years ago you could count the number of wineries in the Grand Traverse region on two hands with almost a whole hand to spare. Not too many years before that there were just two or three.

My, how things have changed.

At the 32nd annual Michigan Wine and Spirits Competition held in East Lansing recently, at least 19 local wineries won some kind of prize, from "Best of Class" and "Judges' Merit Award" designations to double gold, gold, silver and bronze medals.

It was an amazing haul. Many won multiple prizes for multiple wines. Five won Best of Class designations and one a Judges Merit Award. Five others received Double Gold medals in eight different categories. At least nine more won gold, silver or bronze.

Clearly, the number of wineries in the Grand Traverse Bay area has exploded in recent years. From 1974, when Ed O'Keefe founded Chateau Grand Traverse to the early 1990s, the industry grew quickly enough, adding a handful of wineries. Since then, however, the number has exploded.

To the great credit of those wine makers, the quality of wine coming from some of the newest players is amazingly high. Many of the best in the wine and spirits competition were relative newcomers. The Best of Class winners included Left Foot Charley, Gill's Pier Vineyard & Winery, Bel Lago, Longview Winery and Forty-Five North Vineyard & Winery, all new kids on the block.

Much of that growth has been made possible because of a corresponding growth in the number of vineyards not necessarily tied to a winery. Many makers are buying grapes from long-established vineyards that sell to more than one winery; growing award-winning grapes can often take many years, time the newcomers simply don't have.

The Grand Traverse region has gotten more than great wine out of the deal. It has gotten another relatively recession-resistent business, like tourism, and acres and acres of vineyards on some of the region's most scenic geography. To our great benefit, many former cherry orchards have become vineyards, not condo developments.

Below are the winners:

-- Best of Class awards included Left Foot Charley in the Dry White category for its 2008 Pinot Blanc "Island View Vineyard, while Gill's Pier Vineyard & Winery won the Dry Red competition with its 2007 Cabernet Franc/Merlot. Bel Lago winery won the Semi-Dry White class with its 2008 Gewurztraminer, while Longview Winery took the Fruit Wine competition with its Reserve Cherry Wine. The Best of Class for Rose went to Forty-Five North Vineyard & Winery for its 2008 Pinot Noir Rose.

-- A Judges Merit Award went to Black Star Farms for its 2008 Arcturos Dry Riesling.

-- Double Gold medals also went to Black Star Farms, Brys Estate Vineyard & Winery, Chateau Fontaine, Forty-Five North, Leelanau Cellars, Left Foot Charley, Longview Winery and Shady Lane Cellars.

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